Established in 1984, Cost Effective Maintenance (CEM) provides cost effective methods to correct engine problems such as oil consumption, power loss, hard starting, smoke, poor fuel consumption, blow by and chronic overheating. In 2007, CEM were granted membership status with the Australian Government's Greenhouse Challenge Plus program, which requires members to commit to energy saving pursuits. Home About Us Solutions Products Case Studies News Links Smoke & Oil Consumption Chronic Overheating Power Loss & Poor Fuel Economy Hard Starting & Filthy Oil Prevention Maintenance Save on Repair Bills Performance/Economy FTC Decarboniser Cleanpower fuel Treatment Flushing Oil Concentrate AW10 Antiwear Maintenance Booklet bHIP Energy FOC & Cleanpower Value Pack FTC Decarbonizer Cleanpower Fuel Treatment Flushing Oil Concentrate AW10 Antiwear Discover The Secrets bHIP Energy Contact

Flushing Oil Concentrate

  • Filthy Oil
  • Stuck piston rings
  • Sludgy engine
  • Power Loss
  • Smoke
  • Rough Idle
  • Overheating
  • Hard to start
  • Blowby        
Just 250mL FOC keeps a Landcruiser or Patrol clean for 10 oil changes! Its so cheap to use! Or, it will clean up 2 dirty ones.

In the Mid 1980s we identified the almost universal problem of very high oil soot, with small pre-combustion type diesels (e.g. 4x4s). That is, the oil gets black very quickly compared to direct injection diesels (like most large truck types diesels). Many 4x4 owners comment..."All diesel oil is black isn't it?"

The problem is the black soot totally uses up the oils detergency (it stains everything it touches then). Sludge and piston ring sticking result, which causes oil consumption, power loss, high fuel consumption , oil pressure problems, hard starting, blow by AND even chronic overheating. That's right, one of the oils 5 duties is to cool the engine, but it can't do this if sludge restricts oil flow or the underside of pistons are coated in muck! Many modern petrol engines are now also very prone to sludging up severely.

It wasn't until the early 1990s that our search for a solution was finally rewarded. Flushing Oil Concentrate is formulated on purpose specific detergents (not solvents that can cause problems with oil seals, O-rings, and even a crankcase explosion!)

Flush enables owners to restore full cleanliness to their entire crankcase, removing all sludge and piston ring deposits.

How good is it? People with very dirty, thickened oil (even as soon as it is changed) often report back that the oil is so clean, they can't see it on the dipstick. The photo below is after flushing a 3.0L diesel Hilux with 268,000kms. Normally after a service, it would be jet black straight away on the new oil. Here's the proof...

How do you use Flush?
If you change your own oil you can do it, because that's basically all there is to it. The first time you do it, it just requires 30 minutes of fast idle on clean oil with FOC to restore pristine cleanliness to the entire crankcase. Once you've restored cleanliness, you just put a very small amount in the old oil before each oil change. At around $5 per change for a Hilux, it's so very cheap to use! Do this every time you change the oil, and your engine will never again become gunked up.

 

 Step 1. Drain the old oil out hot. That way you remove as much contaminant as possible first up & you get the best possible clean up result. Matt shows us how on his 1998 Hilux 3.0L diesel, which has 268,000 kms on it.

 

 Matt just purchased the Hilux, and the dealer had changed the oil about 500 kms ago. Just look how filthy it has become in such a short time!


It's pretty clear that this oil would not last its full service period. It would stain your hands by 1000kms, from my experience...and if it stains your hands, it can't keep the engine clean!!

 

 Step 2. Add fresh oil to the engine. You can use a cheap oil for this part of the job. Run the engine to warm up the oil, and then add the Flushing Oil Concentrate (125mL for 10L oil capacity). The Hilux takes 6 L oil, so Matt added about 75mL Flush.

Landcruisers and Patrol 4.2L diesels need 125mL for a 10L sump.


Series 60 Detroits need 500ml for 40L sump.

 

 Step 3. Run the engine at a fast idle parked up for 30 minutes. For most 4x4s, this means 1500-2000rpm. For Larger truck type motors (eg Series 60 Detroits, Cats, Macks, Cummins, etc), run at about 1200 RPM

 

 Well, brand new oil and Flush, and see how it looks after 30 minutes. It's picked up all the old persistent sludge from around valve gear, oil galleries, etc, and hard baked on carbon from piston ring grooves, skirts, oil coolers etc.


This oil is pretty dirty, but the engine crankcase (the oil wetted side) is now very clean!

 

Step 4.  Drop the oil again, and watch all the build up muck go out with the flush.

 

 Step 5. Add a good quality engine oil and new filter, and it will now easily last for the whole recommended oil service period.


At this stage, many customers choose to also add the AW10 Antiwear to the oil for added protection, and quieter running. Engines love it! They rev more freely and run so smoothly and quietly...it's a feel good thing!

 

 Step 6. As a final check, make sure there are no leaks, take it for a quick run and recheck the oil level.


In Matt's case, he found it very difficult to even see the oil on the dipstick. That's it on the left. It took a few attempts to even photograph it properly.


Once you've got it clean, just put a small amount of FLUSH in the old oil 30 minutes before you drop it out. For the Hilux, that's a mere 15mL an oil change. So cheap and yet so effective!


Nowadays, a lot of modern low emission truck diesels e.g. Detroit Diesel Series 60, Cummins M11 and Signature engines, Caterpillar 3500 series engines, old Perkins, Detroit 2 strokes, Hinos, etc that can suffer sludge problems join the ranks.

Also plenty of modern petrol engines now have sludge problems due to running higher operating temperatures and longer oil change intervals. That rocker cover on the right is from a V6 Camry motor. Many sludge reports also come in concerning Avalon, Lexus, VW, BMW and in fact most modern pertol engines, since they run higher operating temperatures are more susceptible to sludge. Many car hire companies turn their fleet over so early, that they never bother with oil changes, so sludge build up is inevitable.

Engines not used for months, even years? Overheated engines?
In most cases the rings will be stuck since any carbon present has dried out and hardened. Well, Flush will even dissolve that and free them up again.

How much Flush do I need?
4x4's and light vehicles. The small (250mL) pack will do up to 20L of engine oil. Your typical Landcruiser diesel takes 10L oil and would need 125mL Flush. (The remainder will do a further 5 "keep clean flushes")
For larger engines, the 1L Flush will treat up to 80L of oil. A Series 60 Detroit takes about 40L oil and needs 500mL Flush. (The remainder will do a further 5 "keep clean flushes")

But you also need to reduce the production of sludge... You need to clean up the combustion process, so that less soot is produced. Then less soot enters the oil, and sludging is minimized. Either FTC Decarbonizer or Cleanpower in the fuel can provide cleaner combustion. Cleanpower cleans and protects the entire fuel system. FTC provides a direct combustion efficiency benefit.